Monday, June 8, 2009

Visit to Kamakura

Like the Imperial Palace, another image of Japan that had been with me for many years is that of the Kamakura Buddha, so I was determined to see it on my first visit tpo Tokyo. The existence of a the Kamakura Buddha was clear evidence of how far Buddhism had spread to the East. This was important to someone from Sri Lanka.

Because no one was free on that day to travel with me, I risked the trip by myself, taking two local trains from Govindan's house to Tokyo and then taking the JR (Japan Railways) line to Kamakura. The day was nice, so I decided to walk the nearly 2 km. from the station to the statue. Although the neighborhoods were quiet and peaceful, and other visitors, mostly schoolchildren, were walking along with me, the walk soon turned painful because I was wearing new shoes. And the lack of signs in English was also a challenge although a couple of Japanese people helped me out by walking with me instead of merely showing the direction.




At first sight, the Buddha wasn't as large as I had imagined. I am used to seeing huge Buddha statues carved from rock, both upright and reclining, in the ancient cities of Sri Lanka. Kamakura, in contrast, is cast in bronze, and is 13.4 meters high, including the pedestal. Construction had begun in 1252 and continued for ten year. Having seen it at last, I spent quite some time, gazing at the benevolent countenance. All the time, I was surrounded y schoolchildren and some even spoke to me in English, quite surprising in Japan.






Kamakura is home to five historic temples and I took the bus to visit some of them. (At least two days would be needed to see them all.) By the 13th century, Kamakura had become the capital of Japan and the "political, military, diplomatic, and cultural center of the nation". Japan is said to have eagerly embraced Chinese culture during this period, from Zen religion and architecture to Buddhist sculpture and lacqureware.

On the recommendation of some locals, I decided to visit two temples, the unpronounceable Tsurugaokahachimangu and the Kenchoji. The stroll to the former temple was through a shady path and I made a quick visit to the nearby museum (somewhat disappointing) and to the lotus ponds (peaceful).







I then walked uphill to the Kenchoji Temple, passing this charming grove of trees on the way. Kenchoji consists of about seven main temples and some sub temples. They were not as colorful as the other temples.













I saw this lovely bamboo grove behind Kenchoji



The charming entrance to a restaurant off Wakamiya-oji Street near the Kamakura Station.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Sightseeing in Tokyo

My first hotel was in Shinjuku, akin to Tsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong, a crowded, bustling area of Tokyo. I understand that the sleazier area of Shinjuku, with "massage parlors" and criminal activities, are behind the bright lights and the glitter in back streets. But I did not feel any danger even among the narrow lanes that ran at right angles to the main street.




A fascinating display of (plastic) food at a restaurant window. Shinjuku is full of interesting eating places full of partying salarymen.

I took a full-day city tour of Tokyo and the first stop was the Fukagawa Edo Museum which is a reproduction of a riverside district in Edo, as Tokyo was known previously. To quote from the Museum's brochure, "The area on the east bank of the Sumida River, called Fukagawa, prospered from around the mid-19th century with people actively engaged in various business and cultural pursuits". Built almost entirely of wood, the houses and shops were located close to each other.



The quiet streets and lanes around the Museum, typical of a residential neighborhood in Japan. No blaring radios or TVs, no honking cars or buses, mostly pedestrians and cyclists.


This shop sells tombstones

We also visited the Hama-Rikyu Garden which is in an urban setting not far from the sea. It was the residence of a feudal lord during the Edo period and later became a duck hunting ground.


We saw a number of stray cats in the garden, abandoned by their owners. (Just the way some Hong Kong people abandon their pet dogs in the country parks.) There are signs warning visitors not to feed the cats but the cats are obviously being fed because they weren't thin.


We went on a cruise on Tokyo Bay which included lunch. It was not a sunny day and in any case a day time cruise is rarely interesting.


The Imperial Palace had been a familiar sight to me, having seen it for nearly all my life in images of Japan that appear in calendars and other collection. When we visited, the inner courtyard was not open. (Apparently, it opens only twice a year.) The Palace is another tranquil setting in the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.







Our final stop on the city tour was the Asakusa Temple and the nearby Nakamise shopping arcade.


Reading one's fortune at the Asakusa Temple.


Nakamise is crammed with tiny food and souvenir shops but I found this tranquil restaurant off a side street.

Kimonos!


A tiny eating place off a side street


This shop apparently sold (politically incorrect) whale meat
I returned to Asakusa & Nakamise with Govindan's family and two Sri Lankans. I saw this street scene straight from the last century.
Busking in Nakamise. As you can see, they didn't have a collection hat while they sang. It only came out after the singing and the crowd had drifted away by that time. Not a good strategy!
I had a great time in Asakusa/ Nakamise. I am sure to revisit Tokyo so I could go down to Nakamise.

A working holiday in Tokyo

Although I have been to Japan about ten times, I have stayed away from Tokyo mainly because large cities don't appeal to me. But, now that my old friend Govindan resides there, I was waiting for an opportunity for a visit. It came in the form of an invitation from Temple University, Japan, to review their Masters' and doctoral program in TESOL. My visit coincided with the marriage reception of Miho's nephew Shingo, so I would get to see her family again.

The reception was at the Hyatt, and, this being the wedding season (I presume), there were eight other receptions going on at the hotel. It was a fairly elaborate ceremony, but not as lengthy nor elaborate as a wedding reception I attended in Hong Kong last year. The bride changed her outfit only once, compared to four times in Hong Kong! Plus, there was no roasted suckling pig at each table, much to my relief.

Lots of ceremonial kimonos, much to my delight, and all the men wore formal suits. The cuisine was French. Much drinking, and to my disappointment, many guests smoked.



Miho's family. Her parents are in the center. Sister Yuko and niece Saiko are on the left. Saiko is a nurse in Nakashibetsu.


Miho's younger niece Shoko is on the right. She's a medical student in Hokkaido.

The happy couple, Shingo and Kayako. They met at work.


The couple went around to each table lighting candles. They are seen with the groom's dad.