Grass for my Feet: Visit to Wenfeng Si Temple

TripAdvisor suggested a visit to Wenfeng Si Temple, just south of Lijiang town, which had a "stunning view" of Lijiang Valley. No public transport is available so Mao Dan and I set off one morning in a minivan (hire Yuan 300). After a short drive through farmland of wheat, beans and plums, we began to climb on a winding road. Soon, snow began to appear on either side of the road and then on the road itself. Naxi graves dotted the hillside.

The temple is at an elevation of 3,500 meters and was built about 300 years ago. Destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, it has been reconstructed so the buildings may not be original. We appeared to be the only visitors that day, and, as we parked, I noticed a beautiful pagoda high up on the hill and assumed it was the Temple.

A Tibetan stone mound on the way to the Temple. Circle it thrice and your wish will be granted. Mine wasn't!

A Tibetan stupa. The shape of Buddhist stupas differ from country to country. Thai and Sri Lankan stupas have their own shapes.

After passing a large courtyard, which included a basketball court where a sprightly nun and young lamas were leisurely dribbling a ball, we suddenly came upon the Temple. It did not look impressive and I thought the description was exaggerated. What about the pagoda I had glimpsed from the parking lot? I did see it again now, a good 1,000 meters above the main Temple.

A Chinese Buddha at the entrance to a Tibetan temple?

The Temple courtyard. Young lamas were having a good time, running around throwing snowballs at each other.

Prayer wheels.

Jolly lamas.

After a quick visit to the Temple, we decided to climb up to the pagoda high on the hills. The path wandered up past the Temple and from the start, it was covered in ice and snow.

The sign says "Slip and fall down carefully."

Beyond the sign above was this lovely pagoda. I am not sure what it's called.

The climb was steep and treacherous, every step a risk of a slip and fall. At this altitude, my breath was labored and my heart banged against my chest. I had to rest twice at gazebos on the way up.

We saw only three other people. They were carrying some oil as an offering to the monks at the pagoda.

Finally, after about 45 minutes of steady climbing, we reached the beautiful pagoda, which was actually a meditation center for monks. It must have bee recently built because the buildings looked new.

The meditation rooms circled the courtyard.

This nun sang softly to herself as she hand washed a robe. The water must have been freezing. did see a washing machine in the corner.

The roof of the gate.

Views of Lijiang Valley far below.

Wenfeng Temple seen from the pagoda.

I contemplated becoming a monk. All I needed would be a small room with a good heater, a mattress warmer, a pile of books, simple vegetarian meals, and Internet access. I could help with cleaning and cooking while "meditating" (ha! ha!). In Burma, I know that even married men could become short-term monks. Three months at this pagoda would give me another lease of life.