Grass for my Feet: The Last Survivor?

Leonard Woolf's immortal classic Village in the Jungle, set in colonial Ceylon, narrates the gradual decline of a small dry-zone village. As the villagers die out or leave, the jungle gradually covers the crumbling, miserable huts. The last survivor is Punchi Menika, one of the daughters of Silindu, the tragic protagonist of the novel. In the final scene, as Punchi Menika lies in her dilapidated hut, a giant wild boar glides into the hut like a mythical devil to gore her.

This scene comes to mind whenever I come across an abandoned village in Sai Kung. In fact, in the case of Wong Chuk Yeung, a village about 3 kms uphill from Sai Kung town, among the lush and verdant hillside, the novel's ending is especially relevant for a very good reason, which relates to the title of this entry.

Crowded Mong Kok

Even after living in Hong Kong for 14 years, I am fascinated by the contrasts here. To me, the most striking contrast is the crowded urban areas of Central, Kowloon, and Mong Kok, and the deserted and abandoned villages in the rural parts of the New Territories where I live. After all, Hong Kong is barely 500 square miles and only half of that is inhabited. (The rest is given over to hillsides and country parks.) We are 7 million tightly packed people here. A journey on the MTR during rush hour provides ample evidence of this density. The real estate prices are among the highest in the world. Then, how does one explain abandoned villages?

Apparently, these isolated villages were occupied by rice and vegetable farmers. They lacked proper roads, schools, electricity, or water service, but this simple life style suited the villagers. But, as Hong Kong prospered, their children moved to more urban areas or even abroad. As the older villagers died out and imported rice became cheaper, the rice fields were abandoned and the cows that pulled the ploughs were let loose to fend for themselves.

Approach to Wong Chuk Yeung village

Wong Chuk Yeung village lies within Ma On Shan Country Park, at the end of narrow, steep, twisting Chuk Yeung Road, climbing past Shan Liu village on the right. On the way up, a steep slope is on the left and a forest is to the right. As the road crosses the MacLehose trail favored by hikers, the forest presses on the road from either side. At its first appearance, the village might give the idea of being inhabited, with electric lines, functioning taps, and an adequate parking lot. However, the lichen-covered houses and the trash-strewn, weed-choked alleyways seem to indicate the leck of inhabitants. Rice fields and fruit trees long abondoned and over grown with weeds surround the village. A few graves which are well maintained can also be seen nearby.

Wong Chuk Yeung

I have been going up the road for a number of years now, and an elderly gentleman who looked to be in his early 80's would pass me by on his way to Sai Kung town or on the way back to the village. He wasn't sociable and did not appear to notice me or other hikers. I would also see him in town occasionally, chatting with people his age or doing a little shopping. Although the walk to and back from the village must have been strenuous for a man his age, I never saw him take a taxi.

Later, I also discovered a younger man at the village. He owned a bicycle, and, although I never saw him cycling downhill, I would meet him on the way back, laboriously pushing his bike laden with plastic shopping bags. He would pause often on the way, squatting on the ground to rest before he attempted a further stretch of the steep road.

For the past year or so, I have not seen the elderly gentleman. Has he moved elsewhere to be with his children, or has he passed away? I still see the younger man and I believe he is the last survivor of the village, living in a ramshackle house with three dogs. He must have an income (probably government welfare payments) because he shops and also keeps his bicycle in good repair. He must lead a very lonely life. I know that the police visit the village regularly, so he can't come to any harm.

Wong Chuk Yeung

Obviously, the road, electricity, and water service came too late. Had they arrived in time, more villagers may have stayed back. On the other hand, the availability of electricity and water would also tempt Hong Kong's rapacious real estate developers. I hope the government and green groups manage to fend them off because Wong Chuk Yeung village deserves the peace and tranquility it has now, providing a pleasant contrast to the manic pace of most Hong Kong localities.

Wong Chuk Yeung

The last survivor?

On the way down to Sai Kung

View of Sai Kung town on the way down

On the way back to Sai Kung, splendid views of the town and the High Island Reservoir, within the Sai Kung Country Park, open up. Although teams of hikers appear on weekends, the road is mainly deserted during weekdays. Domestic helpers walking their employers' dogs can be seen, but they too become fewer when the heat of summer sets in. I have seen the fragile-looking barking deer on the road and also wild boar. On some afternoons, paragliders could be seen flotaing down towards Sai Kung town.

I wonder about the last survivor. Why does he continue to live amidst such decay? Why doesn't he move to a more comfortable home where he does not need to push a bicycle up a steep hill? Does he have any relatives left? How long will he last?