Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Impressions of South Africa



The sea near Cape Point

I went to Cape Town with some hesitation because of the outbreak of crime and violence there. The country does have a soiled past, Apartheid (discrimination against Black and colored people by the minority Whites) still a vivid memory. Even tin the travel books and novels I read --by Paul Theroux, Nadime Gordimer and Coetzee -- this violence figures prominently. On the other hand, the two people I most admire, Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, are also South Africans.

Cape Town, on the whole, was enjoyable except for a couple of rapacious taxi drivers. We received good service at shops and restaurants, from the tour guides, and the Bed & Breakfast where we stayed was fully worth the cost. But, as I traveled away from town, I began to realize that South Africa is essentially two countries, of the wealthy (both Blacks and Whites) in their Mercedes, BMWs, and grand houses with high walls topped with razor wire, and of the dirt poor Black people, who hung around town aimlessly, walked along the roads in the blistering sun, or populated the slum townships.

The government is in the hands of the African National Congress (ANC), and the leadership is Black. They appear to be highly corrupt. The next in line for President, Jacob Zuma, has married four times, and has been accused of rape and embezzlement of $3 billion. I read that annually, 500,000 women are raped in South Africa (these are only the cases that are reported) and 4 women die everyday at the hands of their spouses or partners. The newspapers are full of Letters to the Editor, from White citizens judging by their names, complaining incessantly about the deterioration in the living standards, corruption, and crime.

Yes, except for Desmond Tutu, no Black leader appears to be critical of the falling standards. Take Zimbabwe, South Africa's neighbor. While Zimbabwe descends into hell (there was an outbreak of cholera recently, in addition to a soaring inflation, famine, and a breakdown in law and order), there was hardly any protests from South Africa. What is disappointing is the lack of a statement from Nelson Mandela. He is over 90 now, somewhat feeble, and does not make speeches,but even a short written statement from him would have an impact. A South African academic, who faced discrimination under apartheid, told me that Mr. Mandela is only seen in public when a celebrity arrives to make a donation to his Children's Fund, and that his family appears to be making the most (financially) out of Mr. Mandela's fame. (Rev. Martin Luther King Jr.'s family, in the USA, was accused of doing the same from King's legacy.)

The disaster that is Zimbabwe should serve as a warning to all South Africans. If they don't get their act and their country together, only chaos awaits them.
Water & sky near Simonstown

1 comment:

  1. I was just taking a little break from work when I read your posts. You have certainly written a lot about your Christmas and New Year travel! The pictures are nice, especially with the amszing blue as background! I have learned more about the world by reading your posts, things that I might have missed in the news.
    Good to see you have had a great trip before coming back for the cold weather! Take care.

    Emily

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